San Ignacio

Wednesday 20 December 2006

This is the oldest church in Buenos Aires, San Ignacio. It was built by the Jesuits and dates back to 1710. I find it very hard to take pictures in churches - I can never seem to hold still enough.

Also, I felt bad because the priest was hearing confessions a few meters behind me. This church, being so old, is also a tourist attraction, but I still didn't feel like I should have a camera in there. Strange, taking pictures of Asian temples would make me feel bad for disturbing others, and I certainly wouldn't if there were a service of some sort going on. But that didn't bother me on principle. I guess because I was raised in it, taking pictures in a church seems worse, somehow.

Menorah

Tuesday 19 December 2006

Happy fourth day of Hanukkah, everyone! It's just a Jewish-themed week here, so far! But I've seen two creches up and two menorahs, so I thought it was worth a picture. (Did I mention that there's a big Jewish population here?) They put lanterns up on it at night.

Atentado

Monday 18 December 2006

Once a week, on my way to work, I walk though this park outside the Isreali embassy. These signs, at the entrance and exit, say "29 people died in this place. Please respect their memory." On 17 March 1992 Islamic extremists, supposedly supported by Hezbollah, blew up the embassy. (There was another attack on a Jewish organization a few years later, as well.) It's nice, though, that they could just build a memorial garden and move on.

North

Sunday 17 December 2006

This is the only place I've ever been where north is never ever up on the maps. When I first arrived I thought maybe it was a Southern Hemisphere thing, but no, it's unique to Buenos Aires. On nearly all of the maps here, the river is on the bottom of the paper, although the river actually runs along the north east of the city. Because of this, I am so confused about which direction is north when I'm walking around, as I can never compare it to the map in my head.

Casual Tango

Saturday 16 December 2006

Ryan and I went to a tango bar last night (well, this morning, really). A huge art-covered warehouse, it was quiet and nearly empty, but a few couples were out on the dance floor, and they were really good.

I also tried Fernet, a local herb liquor that's very popular, and found I liked it a lot. Ryan was not a fan, however.

Creche

Friday 15 December 2006

The lack of apparent Christmas preparations has been a surprise for me. Being back in a Christian country, I was expecting a real holiday season this year, but as it ends up, that's not how things work in Argentina. Christmas is less than two weeks away, and there is almost no visible sign of its approach. No carols, not many decorations, nothing.

Some of this is the lack of commercialization. Back home it is usually the stores reminding you that Christmas is coming, in order to sell you gifts. Here, almost none of that exists. Also, it could also be because it is not a very big religious holiday, although it is an important family time. (Argentines in general are not religious at all.)

It's a little disappointing, not having that Christmas spirit in the air, that feeling of a holiday coming. There are, however, a few of these creches around the city, all identical, without any surrounding decoration or explanation, but a few statues here and there. This one is outside the Once train station.

Window Washers 2

Thursday 14 December 2006

Once or twice a week I work in an office downtown where I sometimes give English classes, and where I sometimes just wait around while a student just doesn't come to class. Today was one of those days, so I had some fun taking pictures of the window washers from below.

Time for Church

Wednesday 13 December 2006

A shop selling children's clothing for first communions and baptisms, on Rivadavia.

Nueve de Julio

Tuesday 12 December 2006

This is Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest avenue in the world. It is twenty lanes wide, and the center of Buenos Aires. This isn't the best shot, but it's a little piece of the city anyway, and I had a lot of waiting to do at a company today where no one was showing up for their English classes on time.

Under Construction

Monday 11 December 2006

A building under construction where dozens of families are squatting. Signs of the economic crash and continued hardships are visible every day here.

Submarino

Sunday 10 December 2006

This is my favorite Argentine drink, called a submarino. I like it so much, in fact, that I can't believe I haven't put up a picture of it yet. Basically, you are served a glass of hot milk and a stick of chocolate. You put the chocolate into the milk, where it melts and makes a very rich hot chocolate. It is wonderful.

(The picture was taken in a cheap little cafe near my house. Notice the Argentine flag bunting all around the ceiling?)

Knife-sharpener

Saturday 9 December 2006

Across the street from my house, a guy using a bike to sharpen knives for a few pesos.

Sara's Sensual Anchor

Friday 8 December 2006

My friend Sara, who is a sculptor, had an exhibit today. It included this piece, entitled "Mi ancla sensual," or "My sensual anchor." Most of her work uses fabric, draped and drooping, and is quite interesting.

Anyone for checkers?

Thursday 7 December 2006

In a park in Belgrano.

Train ride

Wednesday 6 December 2006

I take this train out to some classes in the suburbs three days a week. The ventilation is bad and it is often overcrowded, so many people like to ride hanging out the doors.

Old bricks

Tuesday 5 December 2006

(Another brick picture)

Yeah, this city is really old. The bricks are wearing down between the grout on this staircase.

Fallen mate

Monday 4 December 2006

I posted about the national drink, mate, on September 24th, explaining its significance and usage. Here is a photo to stress just how common a drink it is. I was sitting on the curb one day, waiting a few minutes between two classes in the same neighborhood, when I looking down and noticed that there was used yerba, or the mate herb, all over the street. Clearly this was a spot where someone frequently sits, drinks mate, then dumps out the old yerba when it is flavorless. You really do see people drinking it anywhere, and at any time.

Mataderos 3

Sunday 3 December 2006

Ryan and I were back at the Feria de Mataderos this week, looking for Christmas gifts. We also caught a traditional folk dance performance in the main square, which was nice. I can guarantee that if any of you ever come to Argentina to visit me, I will definitely be taking you to this neat little Sunday fair.

Graffiti 4

Saturday 2 December 2006

Okay, I know, this is a lot of graffiti for one week. But look at it, isn't it awesome?

Happiness begins here

Friday 1 December 2006

Ryan and I went to a huge art show today, which featured mostly really modern completely uncomprehensible avant-garde meaningful pieces. For example, there was a small piece of ripped styrofoam labeled and carefully lit on the floor. There was an entire room made into a fictional messenger-rabbit office. Large movies of circuits. That kind of thing. I didn't understand this exhibit either, a blank wall with two signs - on one end, "Happiness begins here," on the other "Happiness ends here." Ryan and I opted for the former, and will stick with it.

Graffiti 3

Thursday 30 November 2006

More graffiti! (Also in the Flores area) Sorry folks, there's just so much impressive painting here, available to everyone right on the street. I always find myself taking pictures of it.

Window grates

Wednesday 29 November 2006

Window grates in San Telmo

Graffiti 2

Tuesday 28 November 2006

Cool graffiti in the Flores area

The wheels on the bus go . . .

Monday 27 November 2006

An Argentine school bus.

Polo

Sunday 26 November 2006

Ryan and I went to our first polo match today. It was interesting - the crowd was very subdued, clapping politely for both teams until the very end of the second match, which was close and dramatic, when there was moderate cheering. It was freezing cold and a little rainy, so I didn't have the best time, but Ryan discovered quite the love for the sport. It does take a lot of talent, I have to say, and the horses were amazing - the supermodels of the equestrian world. Much more an event of the people here, however. Entrance to two games only cost us four US dollars.

You should aboslutely check out Ryan's pictures when he puts them up on his website, though. He took some really amazing shots.

Gay Pride Day

Saturday 25 November 2006

Today was Gay Pride day in Buenos Aires - I walked past this huge and noisy rally on my way home tonight, and were very grateful that there were still a half dozen blocks between it and my house!

Canna

Friday 24 November 2006

One of my students lives out in the suburbs, in a quiet and green little neighborhood. It is so nice walking down his street, covered with big old trees, flowers outside the houses, the sound of birds - so very different from my own barrio.

Thanksgiving

Thursday 23 November 2006

The aftermath of Thanksgiving dinner - a turkey carcass and a pile of dirty dishes.

I volunteered to help cook at a Thanksgiving dinner held for charity, all the proceeds going to help street kids. Ryan took some wonderful photos of the night (which should be appearing in the Buenos Aires Herald, the city's main English newspaper, on Saturday!) and I spent the night warming unbelievable amounts of mashed potatoes, sending out bowl after bowl of gravy and squash and stuffing. It was a huge success, and the food was excellent. Really, being away from my family, this was the best Thanksgiving I could ask for.

Big Tree 3

Wednesday 22 November 2006

Another ancient tree of Buenos Aires - one of its branches sticks out so far over the sidewalk that people use it as a bench. I really wish I could express or show how amazing I think these old trees are.

Synagogue

Tuesday 21 November 2006

I found this huge old synagogue while walking to a lesson the other day.

Train rush

Monday 20 November 2006

View from the train window.

Historic Bricks

Sunday 19 November 2006

An exhibit at a local gaucho museum - historic bricks. Almost, but not quite, as good as the Salt Museum in Erie, New York, or the spark plug exhibit in the Air and Space Museum in Ohio.

Try Mexico

Saturday 18 November 2006

I went to another Mexico board of tourism event today, where I ate the most bland salsa I have ever eaten (the woman who was teaching us how to make it took out all of the seeds from the peppers, because Argentines cannot stand anything remotely spicy), had my Mayan astrological fortune told (my sign is the white magnetic wind, and means that my life's mission is communication), and made the ugliest piñata I've ever seen (I started making it together with a family, whose little girl picked out a heart-shaped design to be covered with more hearts, but they left before it was done, so I got to finish it and take it home). It was a fun day.

Rodriguez Peña

Friday 17 November 2006

A statue down the street from where I used to live. It's got a bit of a glare, but you can see how very stern he looks. He's right on the corner, scowling down on everyone who passes.

Feeding Frenzy

Thursday 16 November 2006

I came across a pile of pigeons on my way home from a class today, literally a pile, two or three pigeons deep, all scrambling for a hot dog or something.

Verdulería

Wednesday 15 November 2006

Here in Buenos Aires, most people buy their vegetables from a verludería, or a vegetable store. Few supermarkets carry fruits and veggies, and when they do, they're often more expensive and not as nice. Instead, most supermercados have a vegetable lady stationed near the door, with her own little verludería. I think it's great.

Cabildo

Tuesday 14 November 2006

This is a courtyard in the Cabildo, a building here in Buenos Aires which looks vaguely Mexican to me, but actually used to be the seat of the Spanish colonial government.

Those purple trees are blooming everywhere just now - I love them.

San Cayetano

Monday 13 November 2006

Ryan and I visited the Museum of External Debt today. It was more interesting than it sounds, really, and about as exciting as a museum of debt can possibly be. We learned a lot more from the very enthusiastic economics student who appointed himself our personal guide when he found out we were foreigners than we did from the very long complicated explanations of past economic policies, though.

This is a picture of a tiny statue of San Cayetano, the patron saint of laborers. (Here, at least.) The museum used hundreds of these little statues to demonstrate unemployment statistics, set up in little circle representing the number of gainfully employed people in different years. He's quite the popular saint here - even here, in Argentina, where people only ever go to church for weddings and funerals, his feast day is celebrated with pilgrimages and parades and devotions.

Mataderos 2

Sunday 12 November 2006

Went to the Feria de Mataderos again, which is a local Sunday market with gauchos and crafts and food and performances. (See October 1)

It's still very strange seeing Christian religious artifacts, instead of Buddhist or Taoist ones.

Amazing Adventures . . .

Saturday 11 November 2006

Okay, shameless plug today. I just finished this book, (The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay by Micheal Chabon) and it was one of the best books I have ever read, definitely up there in my top-ten. Go out, and read it today!

And it's rather fitting that I should recommend it today, as it is November 11th, and thus Rememberance Day in Canada and Veteran's Day in the States. It takes place during World War II, although it is mostly about the relationship between two cousins, one from Brooklyn, the other from Prague.

Window Washers

Friday 10 November 2006

My job isn't perfect, but I wouldn't want theirs . . .

Keys

Thursday 9 November 2006

These are the keys to my apartment. There is one for the main door downstairs, and three for the three locks on my door. Carrying these keys in my bag makes me feel something like a jailer in a Dickens book.

Estacion Peru

Wednesday 8 November 2006

One of the original subway stations.

Santa Clara

Tuesday 7 November 2006

(Santa Clara, pray for us.)

Toolbox

Monday 6 November 2006

I walked past this old old bus in the middle of repairs on my way to a student's house this morning.

Arbasto

Sunday 5 November 2006

This is the Arbasto, which used to be the central market here in Buenos Aires, full of fruit and vegetable and meat stands, as well as birthplace of the local slang known as "lunfardo," which was invented as the Spanish-speaking locals tried to communicate with Italian merchants. Now it is a classy shopping mall, complete with amusement park and movie theater. At least they didn't tear it down!

I've moved!

Saturday 4 November 2006

So, I have finally moved into what I hope will be a more permanent apartment. It is beautiful and spacious and well-lit, and my roommate is Argentine, so I will get to practice plenty of Spanish! (The outside is just as ugly as the last, however, so I decided to show the inside this time.)

Unofficial cooking class

Friday 3 November 2006

This is Gabriella, a real Italian, who one night taught us how to make pizza, the way she's been making it all her life as taught to her by . . someone, I forget who. So I can add real Italian pizza, with home-made dough, to the list of international foods I can cook for you all!

Dia de los Muertos

Thursday 2 November 2006

Today is Dia de los Muertos, a Mexican holiday devoted to remembering the dead, kinda like Tomb-Sweeping day in Taiwan. It is not celebrated here, but I heard about a little celebration of it, and assumed it was being put on by the Mexican ex-pat community, so I went. As it ended up, it was an event put on by the local Mexican tourism board, and had nothing to do with Dia de los Muertos at all. It consisted mostly of old Argentine ladies getting drunk on the free wine (well, and one young American lady, too.) The only Mexican there, that I would tell, was the ambassador from Mexico to Argentina, who gave a long and boring speech about Latin American solidarity.

However, there was a neat tiny little museum with some old missionary artifacts there, and this painting was in it.

Big Tree 2

Wednesday 1 November 2006

Another of the giant magic trees of Buenos Aires. I sat under this one while I waited to have yet another teaching interview. I'm getting a little tired of being all dressed up and full of myself.