Mud bricks

Friday 29 February 2008

A lot of houses up in the mountains here are still made with traditional mud bricks.

Maimará

Thursday 28 February 2008

Just about the only attraction in the tiny town of Maimará is its graveyard, which sprawls up and down two hills on the edge of town. Personally, I couldn't even figure out how they bury people at such a steep angle - the coffins must be practically standing up! It was a pretty little cemetery, though.

Necropolis

Wednesday 27 February 2007

Up in the town of Tilcara today, where we visited some pre-Incan ruins. They were quite extensive and impressively conserved. Archeologists were even able to reconstruct some houses and buildings, so we could go inside and see what their dwellings would have felt like. (Dark.) This here is the cemetery, where they buried people in these pits (adults in the fetal position, children buried inside of a very specific kind of urn), along with all kinds of food and everyday items that might be useful in the afterlife.

Another foggy cactus

Tuesday 26 February 2008

Okay, another foggy cactus picture. We left Cachi today, and spent most of the day on the bus.

Another graveyard

Monday 25 February 2008

The first place we visited in the town of Cachi? The graveyard - go figure. We're getting enough pictures of South American cemeteries to publish an entire book about it! But these little graveyards up in the mountains are often so peaceful and pretty, they really are a neat and representative place to see in any region.

Coming into Cachi

Sunday 24 February 2008

We arrived in Cachi today, a very small town a couple of hours away from Salta. The bus ride through the mountains is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in Argentina. Unfortunately, for most of the ride we could see nothing but white out of the windows, due to fog. It was a little frustrating, but it certainly made for some amazing views once we got back down into the valley!

Tuna

Saturday 23 February 2008

This is a cactus fruit called "tuna" in Spanish. They are covered in tiny stinging needles, but are well worth the trouble - they taste like a melon, very sweet and soft.

Not Good Friday yet

Friday 22 February 2008

Ryan and I tried some "empanadas de vigilia" today, which ended up just being empanadas without meat in them, because it is a Friday during Lent. Later, as we were sitting in the square enjoying a glass of beer and a game of cards with some local kids, hundreds of people start streaming out of the church, headed by this cross, "El Señor de los milagros." They were going around the plaza doing a stations of the cross. It seemed a little early to me, but I guess they do it every Friday during Lent. There were probably a couple hundred people, and they stuck around afterward to try and touch the statue of Jesus.

Plaza 9 de Julio

Thursday 21 February 2008

The edge of the central plaza in Salta, from the balcony of the Cabildo (old town hall.) This plaza reminds me so much of Spain, more than anywhere else I've seen in South America so far.

Holy Water

Wednesday 20 February 2008

In the cathedral in the city of Salta, you can find this sign by all of the fonts of holy water. It says that holy water is sacramental, and a sacred thing. The first two ask you not to throw in on the floor and not to use it as a means to something else (that translation is a little iffy, though). Okay. But the third tells you not to use it for witchcraft. I wonder if they have much trouble with that kind of thing around here . . . ?

Pata de Lana

Tuesday 19 February 2008

We visited the Museum of the Chaqueño Man today, a museum celebrating the indigenous, gaucho, and gringo influences in this part of the continent, the Chaco. It was a neat museum, and the slightly different second floor was by far the neatest part. They had these little statues of characters from Guaraní mythology, and played a recording explaining their importance, telling little stories. This guy is called Pata de Lana, or Wool-Foot, because he wraps his feet in wool in order to be able to walk silently. He is a little dwarf who takes advantage of fights between couples to seduce the woman. Because of his silence, however, he is never caught by the jealous husband!

San Fransisco

Monday 18 February 2008

Back in Argentina! We came down to the town of Resistencia today, which is known as the "City of Sculptures." There are hundreds upons hundreds of statues dotting the city, of all different styles and sizes. They pride themselves on being an artsy town, and hold a sculpture competition every year just to celebrate this. We did a walking tour around town today, and found over a hundred statues! It was really neat. This one was outside the church. We saw it in the afternoon, but it was so much more impressive at night!

Black Sheep

Sunday 17 February 2008

A Mennonite cemetery - considerably different from the other South American cemeteries we've seen so far! I guess they just don't go in for anything quite so showy . . .

Ryan and I attended mass this morning before heading out of town. It was hot (this town is the hottest we've experienced on this trip so far - broiling), crowded, long, and in Low German. Yet despite all this, it was really neat to see. Especially from the point of view of someone who grew up Catholic - this was a whole different kind of mass. A little singing, the preacher talked for an hour, and then a little more singing. And that's about it. Yep, a simple life for the Mennonites.

Loma Plata

Saturday 16 February 2008

Up into another corner of Paraguay! Ryan and I arrived in Loma Plata today, a tiny town in the northwestern part of the country called the "Chaco." It was founded about 80 years ago by a group of Mennonites from Canada looking for a quiet corner of the world to farm and pray and raise their kids how they want to. They speak Low German, a dialect from the 1500's, live mostly simple and religious lives (although this particular group does allow modern technology, they have cars and cell phones and whatnot. There are other colonies that do not), and keep pretty much to themselves. They do, however, produce 40% of the nation's beef and dairy products. Pretty good for a colony of a few thousand people living in the middle of nowhere!

We sat and chatted with Walter, a member of the colony, on just about everything from how the town was founded, his family's history, their farming techniques, to their relationship with the local indigenous peoples (which he says is friendly, although there are such big differences in race and economic status that it seems to me there is a bit more friction than he was telling).

I rather liked this picture, as this sign has English, Spanish, and German. A lovely mixture that seems to fit right in in Paraguay, a country full of immigrants.

Ryan on the bus

Friday 15 February 2008

A travel day today, as we head up into the northern part of Paraguay, the Chaco. Here's Ryan, drinking tereré (ice-cold mate with herbs) on the bus, camera in his lap, on the look-out for birds.

San Buenaventura

Thursday 14 February 2008

In Yaguarón, another small town outside of Asunción, you can find the Fransiscan church of San Buenaventura. The outside is white, plain, and unadorned. This is the altar. Pretty impressive, huh? There were little angles painted around the top of the sides of the church, who are said to have Guaraní faces. They still had blond hair, though, so it was a little hard to recognize.

Headdress

Wednesday 13 February 2008

A little way out of town we found the Museo Guido Boggiani, which is another excellent collection of Guaraní artifacts. The first room was completely full of feather works. (This area of the continent is known as one of the best bird-watching spots, or, if you're a shaman looking for new accessories, feather-gathering spots.) It was really neat. Also of note where the photographs of modern Guaraní people. They were respectful and thoughtful portraits that made me smile.

Ñandutí

Tuesday 12 February 2008

Just outside of Asunción there is a little town called Itauguá, where this colorful lace is made. (Usually it is way more colorful than this, in fact, with each piece using six or seven different bright colors. But I really liked this yellow one.) It is called ñandutí, and is a craft passed down from mother to daughter. We met a woman who has been doing it since she was seven, who told us that a piece like this would take about 15 days to complete.

Spears

Monday 11 February 2008

We visited the Museo Etnográfico Dr Andrés Barbero today, which was a really nice museum full of Guaraní artifacts. These were some nasty-looking spears . . .

Our cabin

Sunday 10 February 2008

We left Concepción early this morning, and are on our slow way down to Asunción, the capital. Instead of the normal, boring old bus, however, we decided to take a riverboat! It was a nice, relaxing trip, and although we didn't get to spend much of it on the deck (it was cold and rainy all day) it was a much more pleasant way to travel.

Here's Ryan in our cabin, which we were quite lucky to have. Most people had hammocks slung near the engines, and some just had hard plastic chairs for the 22-hour journey.