Sunday, June 24, 2007

Mourning Gardel


Sunday 24 June 2007

I think I've mentioned this before, but the Argentine people have a rather morbid tradition of celebrating the deathdays of their heroes instead of their birthdays.

Today is the 72nd deathday of Carlos Gardel, the most famous tango singer ever. Ryan and I headed up to Chacarita cemetery, where he is buried, to see if anything was going on, and we were not disappointed. Dozens of people were gathered around, talking and taking turns singing tango songs. We met a singer named Paloma Valdez and a professional tango dancer. They were very excited to meet foreigners interested in Gardel, and took us over to meet the world's foremost expert on "Carlitos" (as the porteños affectionately call Carlos Gardel.) He has written more books on the singer than anyone else in the world! We stayed around chatting with these people and listening to stories about Gardel for a little while, then eventually gave into the cold and went home.

Oh, but one thing that they always do is leave lighted cigarettes in Gardel's statue's hand, so that he can join in the party. This is a picture of the guy who would climb up and replace the smoke every time it burnt down.

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